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Kwaidan Editions’ Violent Push-and-Pull

This month, our Spotlight shines on a design duo who bring experience from Céline, Balenciaga and Rick Owens to their new luxury womenswear label.


LONDON, United Kingdom — Kwaidan Editions is named after a 1965 Japanese horror film, an association that might sound strange for a luxury womenswear label. But for co-founder Léa Dickely, it makes perfect sense. The movie, whose title translates as “ghost stories” is, she says, “very beautiful [and] a bit scary… Quiet but powerful.”

Dickely and co-founder Hung La, who launched the label last year, boast two decades of design experience between them, including stints at Céline and Balenciaga (La) and Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens (Dickely). The pair, who are partners in both business and life, met while studying at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp.

“[After our studies] we went to Paris where [La] was at Balenciaga and I started freelancing,” says French-born Dickely. For four years the pair stayed in the city, working at the heart of its fashion industry.

Kwaidan Editions Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: Courtesy

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Danish design collective Superflex has filled the Tate Modern‘s Turbine Hall with a snaking framework of three-seater swings, which it hopes will encourage social interaction between visitors.

The One Two Three Swing! installation features a bright orange framework that weaves throughout the huge Turbine Hall, and continues to the outside of the building.

The Danish collective, founded in 1993 by Jakob Fenger, Bjørnstjerne Christiansen and Rasmus Nielsen, hopes that the three-seater swings will instigate group activity and demonstrate the positives of working in collaboration.

“The work invites audiences to combat social apathy through collaborative action, joining together on the count of three,” said the Tate.

Running until 2 April 2018, One Two Three Swing! is the third in a series of annual Hyundai-commissioned artworks that have occupied the Turbine Hall’s vast space – but it is the first installation to break beyond the gallery walls.


Superflex installs dozens of swings at Tate Modern to “combat social apathy”

[ Art ]


I need a new winter coat but I am confused were to buy. I can buy a rockers coat at Céline soon if I wait for the Hedi Slimane designs, but maybe it will be better to buy a Burberry chique simple coat designed by Phoebe Philo, if she is going to accept to be the next designer for the house.. I can of course wait for a new designer at the house of Chanel if one day Lagerfeld will stop, but then I will need to wait another few years. I am not sure buying a coat at Vêtement or Balenciaga as both labels are destroying the coat, hanging dresses on top of it or attached in the back. Maybe I can wait till Balenciaga becomes again the chique label, on day, designed by….who knows? But what if I buy a Max Mara coat…they have a new designer and the garments look nice at the show. Jil Sander was a bit boring recently but the new coppel designers Luke and Lucie Meyer are making it hype again.

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Approaching the Christmas holidays, we tend to reflect on the year’s highs and lows. The most special moments for me were those related to a lecture, a talk, a show, an encounter, a lunch or a trip abroad. The emotions I felt then are responsible for a change in my vision which has pushed me into new experiences and new projects.

The lecture I gave in mid 2017 before a group of chief executives, managers at Valentino Milano headquarters, was a challenging one. The subject of “Time versus Timelessness” had haunted me for a few months as fashion consumerism changed dramatically in 2017. Designers, architects, artists or performers inspired me in my understanding of the multidisciplinary aspect of the concept of “time”. Einstein brought me to the point of challenging an audience to reflect on “Intuition versus Instinct”.



William Kentridge. Smoke, Ashes, Fable

Since his international debut at dOCUMENTA X in 1997, South African artist William Kentridge has achieved worldwide renown. Most recognized for his ten animated films titled Drawings for Projection (1989-2011), Kentridge’s astonishingly diverse corpus includes masterful drawings, prints, tapestries, sculpture, lectures, and opera productions. This major exhibition presents a unique selection of Kentridge’s work curated for Sint-Janshospitaal in Bruges—at 850 years one of Europe’s oldest surviving hospital buildings. Organized around the themes of trauma and 

[ Curating ]



Pourbus’ early work was a mix of the traditional Flemish style of the early sixteenth century and Italianate influences brought north by his peers such as Frans Floris. He later he began to adapt Italian influence more and more, thus his later works can be considered early Flemish mannerism, which still contained some idioms of the traditional northern style. He never traveled to Italy and instead looked to his peers for stylistic influence. The Groeningemuseum in Bruges displays many of his works.

See Wikipedia for more on this great painter.


[ Art ]


The first edition of State of Fashion opens on 1 June 2018 under the title Searching for the New Luxury, curated by José Teunissen

Searching for the New Luxury explores new definitions of luxury in response to urgent environmental and social issues: less waste and pollution, more equality, welfare and inclusiveness. It explores new (bio)technologies, digital platforms and creative processes that fundamentally rethink traditional notions of luxury and, in so doing, contribute to a sustainable future for the industry.

state of fashion 2018 | searching for the new luxury collects current groundbreaking research and initiates experimental interdisciplinary collaborations that will start in 2018 and continue thereafter. The opening week is from 1 – 10 June 2018. The search for the ‘new luxury’ starts now. Join us!


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