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KWAIDAN EDITIONS

ARTICLE FROM BOF SEPTEMBER 12, 2017 BY CHRISTOPHER MORENCY

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/the-spotlight

THE SPOTLIGHT

Kwaidan Editions’ Violent Push-and-Pull

This month, our Spotlight shines on a design duo who bring experience from Céline, Balenciaga and Rick Owens to their new luxury womenswear label.

 

LONDON, United Kingdom — Kwaidan Editions is named after a 1965 Japanese horror film, an association that might sound strange for a luxury womenswear label. But for co-founder Léa Dickely, it makes perfect sense. The movie, whose title translates as “ghost stories” is, she says, “very beautiful [and] a bit scary… Quiet but powerful.”

Dickely and co-founder Hung La, who launched the label last year, boast two decades of design experience between them, including stints at Céline and Balenciaga (La) and Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens (Dickely). The pair, who are partners in both business and life, met while studying at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp.

“[After our studies] we went to Paris where [La] was at Balenciaga and I started freelancing,” says French-born Dickely. For four years the pair stayed in the city, working at the heart of its fashion industry.

Kwaidan Editions Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: Courtesy

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I AM CONFUSED…

I need a new winter coat but I am confused were to buy. I can buy a rockers coat at Céline soon if I wait for the Hedi Slimane designs, but maybe it will be better to buy a Burberry chique simple coat designed by Phoebe Philo, if she is going to accept to be the next designer for the house.. I can of course wait for a new designer at the house of Chanel if one day Lagerfeld will stop, but then I will need to wait another few years. I am not sure buying a coat at Vêtement or Balenciaga as both labels are destroying the coat, hanging dresses on top of it or attached in the back. Maybe I can wait till Balenciaga becomes again the chique label, on day, designed by….who knows? But what if I buy a Max Mara coat…they have a new designer and the garments look nice at the show. Jil Sander was a bit boring recently but the new coppel designers Luke and Lucie Meyer are making it hype again.

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BoF Exclusive | Does Azzedine Alaïa have the antidote to a relentless fashion system?

By guest contributor July 2011 14,23

Monsieur Alaïa — fashion today, what is it like?

I can only speak for myself, but for a long time now the system of fashion has had nothing to do with our time — it doesn’t suit our time at all. The world is changing rapidly. We see the proof of change every day in the news. Young people want change in this industry, too, yet we continue, just like in the 19th century, to do défilés. There is no need – no interest, really. We could do fewer collections and obtain the same results. We don’t lose any money if we do less.

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JAN JAN VAN ESSCHE

  • PROJECT#1 – PROCEED (January 2013) – Research on Patchwork
  • PROJECT#2 – REDEEM (January 2014) – Research on Sakiori weaving
  • PROJECT#3– WADADA (January 2015) – Research on Rope Weaving
  • PROJECT#4 – EACH ONE TEACH ONE (January 2016) – Research on Boro applications
  • PROJECT#5 – ARISE (January 2017) – Pattern research Inspired by the Kesa garment

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