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SPRING 2019!

FASHION WEEKS − SPRING SUMMER 2019 COLLECTIONS

NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, PARIS. SEPTEMBER 2018

Who can describe fashion weeks more profoundly and intelligently than the masterful Tim Blanks? No-one − for he is the absolute genius analysing, putting in context and describing what was going on for spring 2019 this September in New York, London, Milan and Paris. As I cannot compete with Tim Blanks, I will try to give my humble comments. Dressing-up however we want and however we like might be the only freedom left to us in this new society; bodies and minds are globally different and we will continue to make the choices for dressing-up or dressing-down. Political influences, the #MeToo movement and gender freedom apart, we dress, we shop, we like, we dislike fashion. In this hybrid post-modern society, let’s search together for the “Modern” in it!

Starting off with the New York fashion week in mid-September, press, critics and fashion lovers could witness the variety of styles fashion was going to offer. Focused on diversity, New York fashion week was not really about content but more about freedom of expression. And what freedom there was! Diversity in gender, race, styles, colours, models, sizes and front-row stars. Families were on the stage as well as friends, children and finally the models. This created a chaotic moment where fashion was subordinated to the wild expression of anything that could be called design based on tailoring. Even Calvin Klein was disappointing and I felt as if Raf Simons and Pieter had missed a season; we wanted fresh summer spring details and we were given heavy blazers, skirts missing pieces because of a shark bite and no coherent ideas, all mixed together in a repetitive way that lacked impact. Too many references made the collection look like the work of a recent fashion graduate. Raf Simons can do better…

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GIUNIA GUERRERA Sentimental Materialism

A jury of influential contemporary fashion figures looked on, reviewed the collections and cast their votes. Headed by Steven Kolb, President and CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the jury was composed of actor and designer Waris Ahluwalia (House of Waris), Diet Prada founders Tony Liu & Lindsey Schuyler,

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POLIMODA SHOW 2018

Once we were what we were
then we are becoming what we had
then what we consumed
and now they have made becoming what we throw away

Danilo Venturi, Director of Polimoda
June 12, Manifattura Tabacchi – Florence
good luck to all the students, Linda

 

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ROK HWANG LVMH SPECIAL PRIZE

Congratulations Rok! you are a great designer! Linda

Rokh is founded by Rok Hwang. Before establishing his own aesthetic ethos in 2017; Rok was R-T-W designer for eminent fashion house, Céline, under Phoebe Philo.

Rokh garments, designed with timeless in mind and crafted to last through each season, are familiar yet unique renditions of classic aesthetic. Pieces accent an existing wardrobe with a raw attitude and sensual detailing, defined by the labels unique, yet familiar elegance. rokh reflects the notion that all pieces should be structured, timeless and above all, adaptable.

Rokh philosophy is to give the image new value. rokh harnesses the image as a palimpsest, each layer is inscribed upon the previous, sometimes erased, sometimes affirmed. That which is affirmed grows stronger, that which fails falls away. Trivial trends are erased in favour of visuals that speak co the genuine ways youth expresses itself. Youth forms its own image, which is where rokh direct our gaze.

from press map – press: PR CONSULTING – Paris

www.r-o-k-h.com

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KWAIDAN EDITIONS

ARTICLE FROM BOF SEPTEMBER 12, 2017 BY CHRISTOPHER MORENCY

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/the-spotlight

THE SPOTLIGHT

Kwaidan Editions’ Violent Push-and-Pull

This month, our Spotlight shines on a design duo who bring experience from Céline, Balenciaga and Rick Owens to their new luxury womenswear label.

 

LONDON, United Kingdom — Kwaidan Editions is named after a 1965 Japanese horror film, an association that might sound strange for a luxury womenswear label. But for co-founder Léa Dickely, it makes perfect sense. The movie, whose title translates as “ghost stories” is, she says, “very beautiful [and] a bit scary… Quiet but powerful.”

Dickely and co-founder Hung La, who launched the label last year, boast two decades of design experience between them, including stints at Céline and Balenciaga (La) and Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens (Dickely). The pair, who are partners in both business and life, met while studying at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp.

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I AM CONFUSED…

I need a new winter coat but I am confused were to buy. I can buy a rockers coat at Céline soon if I wait for the Hedi Slimane designs, but maybe it will be better to buy a Burberry chique simple coat designed by Phoebe Philo, if she is going to accept to be the next designer for the house.. I can of course wait for a new designer at the house of Chanel if one day Lagerfeld will stop, but then I will need to wait another few years. I am not sure buying a coat at Vêtement or Balenciaga as both labels are destroying the coat, hanging dresses on top of it or attached in the back. Maybe I can wait till Balenciaga becomes again the chique label, on day, designed by….who knows? But what if I buy a Max Mara coat…they have a new designer and the garments look nice at the show. Jil Sander was a bit boring recently but the new coppel designers Luke and Lucie Meyer are making it hype again.

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BoF Exclusive | Does Azzedine Alaïa have the antidote to a relentless fashion system?

By guest contributor July 2011 14,23

Monsieur Alaïa — fashion today, what is it like?

I can only speak for myself, but for a long time now the system of fashion has had nothing to do with our time — it doesn’t suit our time at all. The world is changing rapidly. We see the proof of change every day in the news. Young people want change in this industry, too, yet we continue, just like in the 19th century, to do défilés. There is no need – no interest, really. We could do fewer collections and obtain the same results. We don’t lose any money if we do less.

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Fashion only moves forward

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